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| "My quarry (Mowgli).
A man's cub went this way," said Sher Khan. "Give it to
me." |
| PROJECT TIGER:
Mowgli and Sher Khan are not enemies anymore, but friends |
Circa 1894.
Rudyard Kipling, later to win the Nobel for literature, pens the classic
The Jungle Book and creates the endearing Mowgli, an impish brat who grows
up in the jungles of central India, nurtured by wolves, Bagheera the panther,
Baloo the bear and assorted other animals.
More than a hundred years later, Mowgli is all set to jump off the pages
of the book and guide readers through his home. That is, if the Madhya
Pradesh Tourism Department has its way. In a bid to strengthen its case
as Kipling country, the department plans to recreate The Jungle Book and
Mowgli is the chosen mascot. The Pench Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh
(a part of the reserve lies in Maharashtra) will play its role as the
enchanting jungle of the classic.
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| KIPLING'S MUSE:
Moore's sketch of the original "Mowgli" |
For Mowgli, this is also payback time. In the book, the animal kingdom
welcomes him into their home-and hearts. Now, it's Mowgli's turn to help
conserve the animals and their habitat. But there is a twist in the new
tale. Mowgli, who killed Sher Khan the tiger in the story, will be its
saviour. R.G. Soni, field director of Pench Tiger Reserve, says he will
use Mowgli to drive the message home to children: protect the tiger.
Soni, who is researching Kipling's work, maintains that Pench is the
sole heir to Mowgli and Co. He explains that the wolf pack that reared
the baby in the book lived in the Seeonee (now called Seoni) hills and
jungles. "These are the uplands of Seoni district where a good chunk
of Pench lies," says Soni. "The town Kanhivada which figures
repeatedly in the book also falls in the district. Besides the river Wainganga
where Sher Khan hunts encircles Seoni."
Selling Pench as Mowgli land has begun in earnest and curious visitors
are flocking to the reserve. Last year just 1,000 had visited the place.
"In the past three months we have had 5,000 visitors," points
out Soni. This is still a far cry from Kanha Tiger Reserve in adjoining
Mandala district which attracts around 50,000 visitors a year. But things
are changing. Private investors and hoteliers, who preferred the high-profile
Kanha Tiger Reserve, are now looking towards Pench. No wonder then that
Soni wants the department to shift focus from Kanha, originally pitched
as Kipling country, to Pench.
D.K. Samantaray, secretary, tourism and culture, Madhya Pradesh, is
non-committal. "The entire state will be promoted as Kipling country,"
he says. The Mowgli tale gets curiouser with forest officials in Kanha
objecting to the label Kipling country. "Why do we need an Englishman
to sell the park? The wildlife is enough attraction," argues K. Naik,
field director, Kanha.
Meanwhile, Soni is already working on "The Mowgli Trail", an
over 100-km route that will take tourists to spots where Mowgli frequented.
"There are places like the Council Rock. They bear different names
today, but the appearances and distances indicate that these were places
on which Kipling based the locations in his novel," says Soni.
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| "...the Wainganga
narrows between a gorge of marble rocks from a eighty to a hundred
feet high, and the current runs like a mill race..." |
| SELLING POINT:
The Sidh Baba Ghat will promote adventure tourism |
This project is still in its infancy and may be developed with the help
of the Tourism Department and private investors. Says an excited Samantaray:
"After Pench, we hope to develop the trail in the next phase."
The trail of the jungle boy starts, well, in Pench-the only point in
the trail actually up for sale as Mowgli's land. Jungles, as the Man Cub
knew them, have long disappeared. Only tracts remain, and Pench is one
among them. The other points in the trail are beyond Seoni, about 40 km
from Pench. Council Rock, where the wolf pack held their meetings, bears
a different myth altogether in these parts. At Nagarkhana, as it is called,
a local king held council with his ministers. Legend says they were cursed
and turned to stone. Soni believes Nagarkhana inspired Kipling.
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| "Mowgli hauled
the donkey by its tail and helped to stack the pots for their journey
to the market at Khanhiwara..." |
| FACT AND FICTION: Pottery survives
in Kanhivada, or Khanhiwara of Kipling's time |
Whether Nagarkhana will form part of the tourist circuit is not certain
as it is inaccessible. Except to the builders who have robbed the region
of its huge rocks. The Seeonee pack-now reduced to a pair of lone grey
wolves-continues to haunt the region, as vouched for by local shepherds
who guard their herd from the wolves at night.
Kanhivada will provide the rural colour. Located 30 miles from the village
where Mowgli lived, the wolf child journeyed to the market here to sell
pots. The town has expanded and the bungalows of English sahibs have given
way to ugly little structures. But pottery still rules the town economy.
Strangely, Mowgli doesn't ring a bell in Mowgli land. "Wolf child?"
asks a bemused Ayodhya Prasad, a potter whose family has been in the profession
for 10 generations now. "People say that wolves picked up a child
around here and he lived with them. He learnt their ways and grew up to
become a terror. But it's an old story," he says dismissively.
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| "Mowgli had
never seen an Indian city ...though this was almost a heap of ruins
it seemed very wonderful and splendid..." |
| SORRY SIGHT: The grand fort palace
of the Bandar Log in Chhapara is in ruins today |
Sidh Baba Ghat close to Keolari is apparently the inspiration behind
the "gorge of marble rocks" that Kipling describes in his book.
Apt, except for the fact that age has turned the marble into an ugly black
block. Mowgli called the gorge the "Place of Death". However,
huge rocks in the ghat with the waters swirling below do not deter a few
tourists from nimbly jumping on the rocks and fishing in the Wainganga
beneath. For Samantaray, this is a perfect place to promote adventure
tourism. The trail, as he envisions it, would end in Kanha. "In Kipling's
time, this stretch would have been dense jungle," he muses.
A great roofless palace, the Lost City, is off the Mowgli trail, north
of Seoni. This is the fort in Chhapara, the lost kingdom of the Gonds.
It stands beyond the river Wainganga as described by Kipling. The fort
is a desolate place in ruins, hardly the grandiose deserted palace of
the monkey-people-the wily Bandar Log who held Mowgli captive here. Chhapara
is a bustling town. One didn't spot any monkeys though, only goats engrossed
in munching grass, oblivious of the spectacular river flowing below.
Though the Tourism Department is gung-ho about the project, reality
has its downside. Kipling's dense jungles are now mere patches of green;
the sleepy, picturesque villages are now bustling towns. Besides, this
is a plan yet to be implemented. Combining adventure, history, fantasy
and fiction, Mowgli's trail could be the high point on Madhya Pradesh's
tourism map. Unless the trail gets lost in bureaucratic maze.
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