BOLD BID: Beri woos the spirited woman

The first time she showed in Paris for the House of Scherrer early this year, French glossies hailed her "the fashion star from Bollywood". Back home, a day before her second Parisian rendezvous, Delhi fashionista and "beautiful brunette"—as the French fashion magazines have called her—Ritu Beri is all geared up to fly to her Malsherbes apartment in Paris and unleash her catwalk creativity on October 9. As head of the ready-to-wear section at Scherrer, Beri has been neck-deep in garments, busy preparing for the pret-a-porter Spring-Summer 2002-2003 collection for the Scherrer House. It's her second attempt at re-jigging the fortunes of the fashion house, and as she says, give it "a new image". This time, she infuses young energy into the line. When she showed in Paris "as the first Indian designer ever" in March 2002, she called her collection She. This time, she has called it Seduction.

The line has smocked fabrics, suede and leather inspired by the Warli paintings

Beri's is a soft, sexy, romantic and risque collection, inspired by the corset or the woman's body. "It's a global collection for the 'today' woman but the spirit is Indian," says Beri. Inspired by the Warli paintings, a ritualistic tribal art form, Beri incorporates the abundant forms and symbols to create a collection that is an expression of her sensibilities. In her own words, it comprises a more youthful, colourful and an easy luxe line made up of georgette dresses, smocked blouses, suede trousers and blanched denim tunics. The focus is on vintage organdie, chiffons and georgettes printed and embroidered with Warli motifs. The colour palette-prominently white, beige, pink and aqua-lends a soft and feminine feel to the clothes. Dreamy chiffons enhanced by intricate texturing highlight the dresses and blouses with necklines plunging beneath antique coral and turquoise jewellery. Trousers and dresses are accessorised with silver belts and pieces that compliment the Spring-Summer 2003 look. The spirit is feminine, romantic and youthful.

Beri has taken more chances with the silhouette. And to make it Indian in spirit, she has thrown in essential details and couture elements like pleats, embroidery, embellishments and block printing on suede, leather and smocked fabric. "It was a lot of fun putting it together because it offers the best of both India and the West. There is an element of surprise," says the 30-something designer, who simply loves Paris. And it shows. When she was signed up by high fashion-manager Mounir Moufarrige, CEO of the France Luxury Group, who also picked Stella McCartney for Chloe, Beri was given a mandate: that the Scherrer woman is young and adventurous; she seduces and wants to be seduced. Beri, who counts among her clients celebs like Andie McDowell, Geri Haliwell, Nicole Kidman, Bill Clinton and Madhuri Dixit, says her new collection is in tune with the Scherrer dictum. She will continue showing her namesake label in Paris. Will her new line click on the French runway? We haven't seen the reviews yet.

-Methil Renuka