There are various indices to rank tiger sanctuaries-for the uninitiated it is the sightings and for the more figure conscious it is the statistics. But for lovers of the wild it is the atmosphere. And this is where the Jim Corbett National Park scores. Watching a group of tigers lounging from a barricaded van is "a zoo in reverse".

ON THE TRAIL: The Corbett is the best place to spot tigers

Most parks in India have accepted the demands of tourism, but the oldest among them, Corbett, nestled in the Kumaon hills of Uttaranchal, still has a natural feel to it. The 520-acre park is one of the most congested-there is one tiger to every five acres-and is the best bet to spot a tiger; you are likely to find one near a water body.

At the man-made reservoir, you can also see the Indian marsh crocodile along with the long-snouted gharials. The common Indian otter, leopards, jungle cats, the Himalayan black bear, sloth bear and the Hog, Sambar, Chital and barking deer share the tiger's realm. But the one that almost rivals the tiger in drawing the crowd is the elephant. Herds of Indian elephants roam the vast stretches of chauds, the tall elephant grass, during the summers.

The best time to visit the Corbett is spring, between February and May. About 300 km from Delhi, it is easy to drive down by road. Ramnagar is the closest railhead. But if you want to visit Nainital en route, you can board a train to Kathgodam at the foothills of Kumaon and proceed to Corbett National Park. Jim Corbett's hunting ground that later taught him to love his prey-he was convinced the "tiger is a gentleman"-and provided the setting for eight mastertomes on wildlife, has wild thrills in store for visitors.

-Ipshita Banerji

Fear Takes Off

SENSITIVE ISSUE: Azmi and Gupta

With SARS and scare spreading, wary travellers are taking a second look at their travel plans. And the travel agents at their revenues. Travel from India to Hong Kong, Vietnam and China has come to a standstill. Corporate travel and package tours are being cancelled. "The cancellations are almost 40 per cent," says Ankur Bhatia of Amadeus.

"While some people are playing the waiting game, the rest are flying to safer destinations like Mauritius," says Gopi Iyengar of Cox and Kings. "Panicky passengers want safety guarantees which we cannot provide."

The airlines are also playing safe, with fewer flights to Southeast Asia. The thrilled lot is domestic operators as domestic tours are replacing cancelled foreign trips. Says K.N. Anand of Cox and Kings: "We will double our revenue from the domestic market." Home sure is sweet.

-Nidhi Taparia Rathi

Splendour in Stone

SENSITIVE ISSUE: Azmi and Gupta

It is a tranquil village on the banks of the Malaprabha river. But there is more to it. The place is a unique communion of religion, art and nature, with the aura of past glory hanging in the air. It is Aihole, located 500 km from Bangalore, Karnataka. Considered the cradle of Hindu temple architecture, hundreds of shrines dot this place.

Easily accessible by road and rail today, Aihole was the first capital of the early Chalukyas. The most impressive temple at Aihole is the Durga temple with its semicircular apse, elevated plinth and the gallery encircling the sanctum sanctorum. Its structure is reminiscent of the Buddhist rock-cut chaityas.

The other important temples are Lad Khan, named after a mendicant who lived in this temple in the 19th century, and Huchiappayyagudi temple and math. These are the repositories of sculptural splendour. The Huchimalli temple which has an image of Vishnu sitting atop a huge snake, the Ravalphadi cave temple, celebrating the many forms of Shiva, the Konti temple complex, Umamaheswari temple, the Jain Meguti temple and the two-storey Buddhist temple are the other structures worth seeing.

Nearby is Badami. Once a capital of the Chalukya king Pulakesi I, one of the greatest rulers of the dynasty, Badami was earlier known as Vatapi. Situated at the mouth of a ravine between two rocky hills, the exquisite sculptures and the rust-red sandstone cliffs of Badami tell many a tale of yore. There are four ancient rock-cut caves, replete with carved pillars and bracket figures, all hewn out of red sandstone on the precipice of a hill. The largest of them is the cave dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The first cave, a Shiva shrine has the most dazzling and dramatic of Badami sculptures-an 18-arm Nataraja. Overlooking these caves is the Agastya Theertha tank, its banks dotted with a cluster of Bhoothanatha temples-a world far removed from the present.

-Stephen David

Singles Sojourn

Single and ready to mingle? Then explore Taj Singles Vacations to be held in Jaipur in April. Priced at Rs 12,000 for single occupancy and Rs 8,500 per person for double occupancy for two nights, the offer includes transfers from airport to hotel, stay at Jaipur's Jai Mahal Palace, meals, liquor and special entertainment. The itinerary is spread out: from exotic cocktails to Rajasthani dinner, yoga to recreational activities, folk dance to puppet shows, shopping to tour of the Pink City, there is a lot on offer for everyone. Contact the Taj reservation network at trn@tajhotels.com or log on to www.tajsingles.com for more details.

Monsoon Magic

Located in one of Maharashtra's picturesque resorts, Mahabaleshwar, Brightland Holiday Village overlooks the Krishna river valley. The package includes a health club, solar-heated swimming pool, Mahabaleshwar's only discotheque and an ayurvedic massage spa. The place is a must-visit during the rainy season and there is a monsoon package. Available between June 21 and September 30, it is pegged at Rs 2,500 (per night) and Rs 6,000 (two nights) for cottage accommodation. For reservations, contact brightland@vsnl.com.