It is a new India that is on show at Cancun in Mexico. No longer seen as merely a Third World country with gargantuan problems, India was being wooed by virtually every delegation at the fifth ministerial meeting of the WTO.

And it is more than just the speed of its growth or the size of its market that makes India attractive. Branded at the turn of the century as one of the leaders of the hi-tech revolution, India now has the potential to deliver foodgrains to global granaries and is one of the most competitive players in steel, automobiles, pharmaceuticals and garments among other industries.

NON-TARIFF BARRIER: Protestors try to scale a fence in Cancun

That two of the most powerful trade warriors in the world-US Trade Representative (USTR) Robert B. Zoellick and the mercurial European Union Trade Commissioner Pascal Lamy-sought meetings with Commerce Minister Arun Jaitley within an hour of his landing is a measure of India's growing importance in the global economy. Jaitley met more than 15 leaders and confabulated with delegations in the first 36 hours of his arrival. India was being wooed by the rich and the powerful as also other developing nations who are looking at the big brother to voice their concerns.

BARELY VISIBLE: Despite strict security measures, anti-globalisation activists

When Zoellick met Jaitley, his first observation was about President George W. Bush's call to Prime Minister A.B. Vajpayee. "You know, President Bush called Prime Minister Vajpayee and spoke with him," he told Jaitley. Zoellick perhaps thought that Jaitley would not be aware of the development and sought to use it as an instrument of leverage.

The suave Jaitley didn't let on to the USTR that he knew of the call. Minutes before the American Airlines flight 1671 took off for Cancun from JFK Airport, Jaitley answered his mobile to find Vajpayee at the other end. His missive: Yes, Bush had called but there is no deviation from the planned course.

With its new found confidence, India's stance on issues like opening up of agriculture to trade and its leadership of the Group of 21 (which includes Brazil, China and South Africa) was critical to the success of the conference. By the time Zoellick left, both he and Lamy knew that India would play hardball.

Caught attention at Cancun

The Mayans would probably not recognise the home they left so mysteriously way back in the 3rd century A.D. With stretches of white sand kissed by turquoise waters set against the clear blue sky, Cancun is the ultimate designer resort. Described as a Caribbean extravaganza by the Mexicans, it is what Goa, Pondicherry and the Konkan coast could have been but can never be.

Barely 35 years ago Cancun was just another Mexican Caribbean island. Then, a task force of the Banque de Mexico chalked out a plan in 1968 to make it a modern and upmarket resort. Today, Cancun has 26,000 rooms and virtually everything that a tourist could look for. Designer golf course, hi-jinks water sports, discotheques, theatres, night clubs, shopping malls, eateries, pubs, bars, Cancun's planners have got it all. Small wonder then that Cancun alone attracts over half a million tourists every year compared with the two million that all of India manages.

Perhaps Vajpayee should choose Cancun for his next year-end musings and take some of his colleagues along. They will marvel at how some ancient civilisations have moved on.

INDIAN WISHLIST

Jaitley (right) with Zoellick

AGRICULTURE: Wants the US and EU to cut subsidies, lower tariffs and allow greater market access. SERVICES: Wants facilitation of e-commerce and freer movement of professionals. MANUFACTURING: Wants greater market access and lower tariffs. Ready for zero tariff in six sectors.

Unlike previous venues of WTO meets, Cancun afforded the organisers the opportunity to control dissent. With private security guards, Mexican Policia and units of the army stationed at every 10 m on the two major roads leading to the venue, there was little chance of trouble.

But there were protests nevertheless. Mexican farmers were allowed to put up tents for the nay-sayers, but only 25-30 km away from the venue. A group of protestors stripped and lay down to form the words "No to WTO" at a nearby beach.

Not all dissenters shed their clothes. Some, like Walden Bello of Focus on Global South, chose to release books. Behind the Scenes at the WTO by Aileen Kwa and Fatoumata Jawara was released at a hip club near the venue. The angry outbursts of the authors and activists made the Swadeshi Jagran Manch sound liberal in comparison.

Chocolate was discovered by the Mayans who used to consume it as a drink (without sugar) to rejuvenate themselves. Not surprising then that chocolate was the symbol of the campaigners for free world trade. On September 8, free trade campaigners invited journalists and activists to a chocolate cocktail where, along with various margaritas and tequila coladas, chunks of chocolate were on offer. Julian Morris of International Policy Network, Andres Mejia and Barun Mitra of Liberty Institute, Akinyl June Arunga of Inter Region Economic Network in Nairobi and Bibek Debroy of the Rajiv Gandhi Foundation used chocolate as a metaphor to push US and EU to free trade in agriculture.

A major chunk of cocoa is produced in West Africa and exported to Europe. The importing nations levy no tax or little duty. But if the African nations want to set up chocolate plants and export brands to Europe, they face duties as high as 40 per cent. The EU wants the African nations to produce cocoa but not add value and produce chocolate.