The drive on Bangalore-Pune National Highway 13, the road that you take to reach the ruins of Hampi, the capital of the 14th century Vijayanagar empire, is quite a pleasant one. It is only when you are just 20 km from the UNESCO-stamped World Heritage Site (WHS) in Hospet taluk that the area's unfriendly dust hits your eyes and the potholes start rattling your bones. There are 56 protected monuments at Hampi comprising palaces, temples, pavilions and bazaars. Scholars and history buffs have been attracted to the not so well preserved ruins spread over 25 sq km from time to time although only about 300 people visit them every day, a miserable figure for a whs.

Efforts are on to increase the tourist flow to Hampi. Infrastructure is a big bottleneck. Karnataka Chief Minister Dharam Singh says the first priority is connectivity (the nearest railway station is Hospet, 15 km away, and the nearest airport is Hubli, about 170 km away). There are plans to upgrade the annual Hampi Festival that takes place in November under the supervision of the state Tourism Department. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is busy putting up around 500 150-Watt halogen bulbs at the Vittal temple to bring in tourists at night.

PICTURE SPEAK
STILL LIVING: A bridge over the Tungabhadra river that will be relocated (top); an archaeological site at Hampi (left); the Rama temple (right)

The state government gave a Rs 30 crore proposal to revamp the infrastructure to the then Union tourism and culture minister Jagmohan when he visited Hampi in April 2002. The proposal envisages development of the area in two phases under three heads-infrastructure; communication and transport facilities; and enhancement of the archaeological remains.

The components of the plan include revival of pathways belonging to the Vijayanagar period, signs giving clear information, provision of drinking water, toilets and solid waste management, parking space and street lights, development of surrounding areas, construction of additional helipads, guest rooms, cultural centres, tourist centres, touch screen kiosks, std and Internet facilities and environment-friendly transport to avoid pollution.

The ASI and the state Archaeology Department are responsible for protecting and enriching the archaeological remains. ASI teams are restoring old temples and fencing the area. "We are also trying to clear the encroachments," says Karnataka Tourism Commissioner Mahendra Jain. In 1998, UNESCO had threatened to take away Hampi's WHS status due to the "encroachments" in the area. Singh, who met unesco officials in Bangalore after its team inspected Hampi in June 2004, says his Government is keen that the WHS status stays as this will allow it to tap World Bank funds required for the improvement of the region. A 1999 study by the Tata Consultancy Services said that about Rs 120 crore was needed to develop the area.

The conflict between development and preservation which is seen at many heritage sites is also affecting Hampi. A controversy is raging over the viability of two bridges that were being built across the Tungabhadra river on whose banks the mighty empire was founded. The bridges would have connected Hampi not only with Anegondi, but also with a highway. The local people, politicians, bureaucrats and scholars very strongly feel that the area needs the bridges, which, they say, will cut 39 km of travel between Hampi and Anegondi. The coracles that are used to cross the Tungabhadra at present are not safe when the river is in spate.

The foundation for one of the bridges was laid before the UNESCO stepped into the scene and Rs 5 crore has already been sunk into its construction. However, ASI and UNESCO officials contend that development work, pollution and vibrations from vehicular movement will steadily destroy the monuments in the area. The Government has promised to relocate the bridges although 90 per cent of the work has been completed.

The Government has not only been wayward in its planning but also slow. Thimme Raju, a Hospet tour guide for nearly 13 years, says, "Hampi got WHS status in 1986, but a panel to make the UNESCO prescribed site management plan was formed only recently. The cost of the satellite images, aerial photographs and survey maps required is estimated to be Rs 75 lakh. We hope Union Tourism Minister Renuka Chowdhury will agree to the proposals the state Government places before her." Chowdhury is planning to visit Hampi to follow up on Jagmohan's projects for the area.

"The Hampi region has the potential to become the Taj Mahal of the south, and even an Athens of the East," notes former Karnataka tourism commissioner I.M. Vittalamurthy. "The ruins will spring back to life," says Jain. One only hopes they do.

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