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BUMPY RIDE

The pathetic condition of roads in Madhya Pradesh acts a severe bottleneck to its progress. India Today's Neeraj Mishra takes a drive to find out exactly how bad they are.

The Scorpio hungrily eats up the white marking in the middle of the road. The steering is remarkably stable and acceleration smooth as the engine responds with alacrity. The occasional pot hole or patchwork is not felt by the superior suspension. The road is broad enough for two vehicles to pass at high speed at the same time and the shoulders are not terribly bumpy. Along the way, there are signs of rural prosperity with rustic designer houses on sugarcane fields. This is Maharashtra on route 69 of the National Highway.

As you drive along, the road suddenly starts getting narrower, to about 17 feet in width from a healthy 22.5. The white markings give way to strange parallel yellow lines on both sides of the road. It's as if the lines are attempting to squeeze you in with the shoulders completely off limit. The pride of Mahindra would easily be destroyed by the jerks. I have entered Madhya Pradesh near Pandhurna in Chhindwara district on Route 69. The contrast is as well defined as the topsy turvy numericals. As I race down further, nightmarish potholes take over. The speed drops from 90 to 30 kmph. The road between Pandhurna and Multai in Betul district is what has made the state famous. A nearly 50 km stretch is as bad as it could be. I quietly hand over the vehicle to the driver who is content that there is at least a semblence of a road now, compared to two years ago when he remembers it as a dry river bed. The trucks coming from the opposite direction refuse to give room as they fear going off the main track.
As you scan the horizon on either side, the aridity of land is again in contrast. The villages are smaller, less prosperous and the dhabas seem geared to cater to the low-spending traveler. Just outside Pandhurna, I meet up with Raj Singh Thakur, managing director of a road construction company. He is making tea
right. Managing director. Just as I wonder if it is some kind of financial arrangement to dodge the tax authorities, the gentleman enlightens me. He is also president of the Kamalnath Sena or some such and is very close to the "national leader from Chhindwara".

Back in the Scorpio, as I mull over his words, the road improves between Multai and Betul. It stays that way till Itarsi, past the Sanpana Jalashay where the huge manmade lake is surrounded by picturesque hills and dales as the road winds through like a giant snake. It's a pleasure to just look at the calm water below from one of the vantage points. My companion suggests it might be an ideal place for a small rest. But the thin traffic on the road because of its dire condition prohibits business ventures or wealthier merchants from Nagpur would be traveling here on week ends. Nature has made its offer but madhya Pradesh seems to have no use for it.

The road between Betul and Itarsi is a grim reminder of how poor infrastructure is cause for concern and has blocked economic development. Just outside Betul local industrialist and NRI Sam Verma has built a beautiful temple and the digital display at the gate shows that more than 3 lakh people have visited it since its opening almost a year ago. A flower vendor says it could easily have been double if only there were better roads.

Traveling back from Raipur in Chhattisgarh, it took exactly four hours to cover a distance of 280 km to Nagpur. Bhopal is about 340 km from Nagpur and it takes eight hours to cover it in a good vehicle with only a half-hour stop for lunch. As I enter home late in the night, I find a government release in the letter box. Among other things it informs me that construction and improvement of 460 kms of national highway—out of a total of 4722 kms in the state—has been undertaken. Route 69 is listed in it. There is also a gripe that the Union Government is to blame for shortage of funds for improvement of roads. I doze off trying to calculate how Route 69 could look so different on the o
y and specifications.

 

 

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